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Featured Review

The only Filipino food served in this town is at a German brat bar


One by one, Filipino restaurants have disappeared in the Twin Cities.

First it was Subo in downtown, whose upscale fare was too pricey for the 1,500 Filipinos in Minnesota and too unfamiliar for the Minnesotans. Then Sayo Foods, a promising food truck serving arroz caldo (chicken rice porridge) and lumpia (tiny pork fried egg rolls), fell by the wayside. Lutong Mekeni, a stand at Midtown Global Market, closed for a family emergency and never reopened a permanent location except for lunches at a St. Paul grocery store on Saturdays. And then even Tita Li's popular Filipino Sunday brunch in Circle Pines had to close.

What's a homesick Pinay girl to do?

Thank God for New Bohemia.

Imagine my surprise when the Nordeast "Wurst+Bier Haus" craft beer bar New Bohemia offers "Filipino Teryaki" sausages ($6.50) among the gator, Italian, duck, brats, wild boar and yak wieners.

Teriyaki is just the familiar word New Bohemia is using to get Minnesotans hooked on this superior sausage. What it really is, is longanisa--a sweet, Filipino-style pork chorizo. Garlicky, sweet, tangy and loaded with umami, this sausage is a bright contrast to the piquant, smokey, savory and game options that take up the bulk of New Bohemia's menu.

New Bohemia is the king of mix-and-match pairing. For as many sausages as they have available, there are just as many sides, toppings and mustards to try out each time you visit. Longanisa is traditionally a breakfast sausage served with rice and eggs. The sweetness of the sausage demands a fatty starch to back it up. I'd recommend picking fried mushrooms and carmelized onions as your two free toppings.

On my most recent visit, I picked 21st Amendment's "Come Hell or High Watermelon" Ale to go with my dinner. While light enough at 4.8 percent for a designated driver to sip through the evening, it doesn't really stand up to the rich fats of New Bohemia's sausages (even though the watermelon flavor is well balanced and not too Jolly Rancher flavored). Since no Filipino meal is complete without a drizzle of vinegar, I'd recommend instead grabbing a sour beer or a crisp pale ale to round out this sausage's flavor with some acid.

Minneapolis may be lacking in Filipino options compared to other Midwest metros, but at least New Bohemia's teriyaki sausage stands as an able ambassador for Filipino-American cuisine.

Pairing:

Price: $

Post-dinner drunchies: Cheesy Belgian Frites with Bacon Ranch ($4 for a regular order)

Location:

233 E Hennepin Ave Minneapolis, MN

OR

8040 Olson Memorial Highway Golden Valley, MN 55427

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